Installation and Troubleshooting Guide
This installation is to be completed by an Authorized Dealer or Professional Service
Technician. For questions regarding installation or warranty, call CDI Tech Support
at 866-423-4832. Do not return to the Dealer or Distributor where the part was purchased.
Contact CDI Electronics Directly for Return Material Authorization.
CDI Electronics, LLC •353 James Record Road SW •Huntsville, AL 35824 USA
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Rev E •4/30/2021 Page - 3 of 4QF-358
WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 3000-4000 RPM:
1. Disconnect the Yellow wires from the Stator to the Regulator/Rectifier and retest. If the engine now has good spark, replace the
Regulator/Rectifier.
2. Connect a DVA meter between the Stator’s Blue wire and engine ground. Run the engine up to the RPM where the problem is
occurring. The DVA should increase with RPM. A sharp drop in DVA right before the problem occurs usually indicates a bad Stator.
3. Connect a DVA meter between the Stator’s Red wire and engine ground. The DVA should show a smooth climb in voltage and remain
high through the RPM range. A reading lower than on the Blue wire reading indicates a bad Stator.
4. Connect an inductive tachometer to each cylinder in turn and try to isolate the problem. A single cylinder dropping spark will likely be a
bad Switchbox or Ignition coil. All cylinders not sparking properly usually indicates a bad Stator.
5. Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a miss at high speed when
the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem because the water will evaporate off the spark plug before
you can identify it.
6. Check the Trigger and Stator coil flywheel magnets for cracked, broken, or loose magnets.
MISS AT ANY RPM:
1. Disconnect the Yellow wires from the Stator to the Regulator/Rectifier and retest. If the miss clears up, replace the Regulator/Rectifier.
2. In the water or on a Dynamometer, check the DVA on the Green wires from the Switchbox while connected to the Ignition coils. You
should have a reading of at least 150 DVA or more, increasing with engine RPM until it reaches 300-400 DVA maximum. A sharp drop
in DVA right before the miss becomes apparent on all cylinders will normally be caused by a bad Stator. A sharp drop in DVA on less
than all cylinders will normally be the Switchbox or Trigger.
3. Connect an inductive tachometer to each cylinder in turn and try to isolate the problem. A high variance in RPM on one cylinder usually
indicates a problem in the Switchbox or Ignition coil. Occasionally, a Trigger will cause this same problem. Check the Trigger DVA (see
NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS).
4. Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a miss at high speed when
the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem because the water will evaporate off the spark plug before
you can identify it.
5. Check the Trigger and Stator coil flywheel magnets for cracked, broken, or loose magnets.
6. Rotate the Stator one bolt hole in either direction and re-test. If the miss is gone, leave the Stator as is. If the miss is worse, rotate the
Stator back where it was.
WILL NOT IDLE BELOW 1500 RPM:
1. Check the Bias resistance from the Black/White terminal (wire disconnected) on the Switchbox to engine ground. Reading should be
13-15K Ω.
2. Check the Stator and Trigger Resistance and DVA (see NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER).
3. Check for air leaks.
BATTERY CHARGING ISSUES:
1. Regardless if the charging issue is overcharging or not charging at all, the #1 cause of all charging issues is the battery often due to
improper style and/or charging neglect. #2 is the battery’s connections. #3 is the Regulator/Rectifier. #4 is the Stator.
2. The recommended type of battery for outboards is a single (NOT more than one) 850+ CCA dual purpose or cranking/starting non-
maintenance-free battery.
3. Non-maintenance-free batteries (lead-acid flooded cell; has vent caps on its top) have heavy, thick plates. They’re ideal for outboards,
where batteries are commonly drained by accessories while fishing, etc. when there is no charge applied to a battery while the battery
is in use. Its heavy plates can withstand constant discharging and charging. These batteries have much more reserve time and are
much more suited for this behavior.
NOTE: Some Maintenance free batteries will have vented caps on top. When in doubt, change the battery to a non-
maintenance free type.
4. Maintenance-free batteries should NEVER be used in an Outboard application. A new, fully charged maintenance-free battery may
work fine at first but their life span is dramatically shortened due to the constant charging and discharging. This activity will cause the
cells to become weak, and/or the cells will become dead. When this happens, the battery is unable to accept a full charge, thus putting
the Rectifier/Regulator at extreme risk of failure. Therefore, maintenance-free style batteries commonly cause charging issues shortly
after installation.
5. Check all battery connections, particularly at engine ground. Make sure that all connections are tight and free of corrosion. Do NOT use
wing nuts as they tend to loosen over a period of time from vibration. A loose connection WILL cause a premature battery and/or
Regulator/Rectifier failure(s).
6. If there is no change, try a single (NOT more than one) known good fully charged battery that is 850+ CCA Dual Purpose, or a
cranking/starting battery that is non-maintenance free. Make sure the battery is a lead acid flooded cell battery (has vent caps on its
top).
