CDI 174-5456 Guide

Installation and Troubleshooting Guide
This installation is to be completed by an Authorized Dealer or Professional Service
Technician. For questions regarding installation or warranty, call CDI Tech Support
at 866-423-4832. Do not return to the Dealer or Distributor where the part was purchased.
Contact CDI Electronics Directly for Return Material Authorization.
CDI Electronics, LLC •353 James Record Road SW •Huntsville, AL 35824 USA
Web Support: www.cdielectronics.com •Tech Support: 1-866-423-4832 •Order Parts: 1-800-467-3371
All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of content, in any manner, without express written permission by CDI Electronics, LLC., is prohibited.
Rev E •4/30/2021 Page - 1 of 4QF-358
CDI P/N: 174-5456
This stator replaces the following P/N's: 398-5454A2, A6, A7, A8, A9, A17, A18, and A55.
Warning! This product is designed for installation by a professional marine mechanic. CDI cannot be held liable for injury or
damage resulting from improper installation, abuse, neglect, or misuse of this product.
It is recommended that dielectric grease (i.e. CDI 991-9705) be used in the bullet nose connectors to help prevent corrosion.
Any sign of leakage out of the high voltage coils or bubbling around the battery charge windings indicate a bad Stator. Check for burn marks
on each pole. If a problem is found on the battery windings, we recommend the Rectifier be closely checked. To replace Stators with ring
terminals, use the bullet to ring adapters enclosed with this Stator.
INSTALLATION
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the Stator wires from the Switchbox, engine ground, and the Regulator/Rectifier.
3. Remove the flywheel.
4. Mark the position of the mounting screws in relation to where the Stator wires come out of the old Stator.
5. Remove the old Stator.
6. Orient and install the new Stator in the same position as the old Stator on the engine and install the flywheel, following the service
manual instructions.
7. Connect the Yellow Stator leads to the Regulator/Rectifier.
8. Connect the Stator Black wire to engine ground.
9. Connect the Red and Blue wire to one Switchbox and connect the Red/White and Blue/White wires to the other Switchbox.
10. Replace the flywheel according to the service manual.
11. Connect the negative battery cable.
TROUBLESHOOTING
How to test the Engine Stop Circuit (Kill) for DC Voltage:
1. DC voltage present on the kill circuit of the Switchboxes due to a faulty key switch, boat harness, or engine harness will severely
damage the Switchboxes internal kill circuit. Connect a Digital Multi Meter to the Ignition Stop wire(s) AT THE SWITCHBOXES while
disconnected from the Switchboxes in reference to a known good engine ground. Turn the Ignition switch on and off several times. If, at
any time, you see over 2 VDC on the kill wire(s), there is a problem with one or both harnesses and/or the Ignition switch. The Ignition
Stop wire should not be connected back to the new Switchboxes at any point until the problem is corrected OR DAMAGE TO THE
SWITCHBOXES WILL OCCUR!
NO FIRE ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect the Black/Yellow (or Orange) stop wires AT THE SWITCHBOXES and retest. If the engine’s Ignition now has spark, the
stop circuit has a fault. Check the key switch, harness, and shift switch (if present).
2. Disconnect the Yellow wires from the Stator to the Regulator/Rectifier and retest. If the engine has spark, replace the
Regulator/Rectifier.
3. Check the cranking RPM. A low cranking speed may not allow the system to spark properly. This can be caused by a weak battery,
dragging starter, bad battery cables, or a mechanical problem inside the engine.
4. Inspect and clean all engine and Ignition ground connections.
NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS:
1. If two cylinders on separate Switchboxes are not firing, check the Trigger as described in step 3 below. The Trigger has three pickup
coils to Trigger six cylinders. #1 and #4, #2 and #5, #3 and #6 each share a Trigger coil.
2. Connect a spark gap tester and verify which cylinders are misfiring. If the cylinders are only misfiring above an idle, connect an
inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem cylinders.

Installation and Troubleshooting Guide
This installation is to be completed by an Authorized Dealer or Professional Service
Technician. For questions regarding installation or warranty, call CDI Tech Support
at 866-423-4832. Do not return to the Dealer or Distributor where the part was purchased.
Contact CDI Electronics Directly for Return Material Authorization.
CDI Electronics, LLC •353 James Record Road SW •Huntsville, AL 35824 USA
Web Support: www.cdielectronics.com •Tech Support: 1-866-423-4832 •Order Parts: 1-800-467-3371
All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of content, in any manner, without express written permission by CDI Electronics, LLC., is prohibited.
Rev E •4/30/2021 Page - 2 of 4QF-358
3. Check the resistance and DVA of the Stator and Trigger as follows:
Read from Read to OEM Ohms CDI Ohms DVA (Connected)
Blue (Low speed Coil) Engine Gnd 5.0-7.0K Ω2-2.4K Ω180 V Minimum
Blue/White (Low speed Coil) Engine Gnd 5.0-7.0K Ω2-2.4K Ω180 V Minimum
Red (High speed Coil) Engine Gnd 90-200 Ω27-55 Ω20 V Minimum
Red/White (High speed Coil) Engine Gnd 90-200 Ω27-55 Ω20 V Minimum
Brown (#1 Trigger) (a) White (#4 Trigger) (b) 0.8-1.4K Ω0.8-1.4K Ω4 V Minimum
White (#3 Trigger) (a) Purple (#6 Trigger) (b) 0.8-1.4K Ω0.8-1.4K Ω4 V Minimum
Purple (#5 Trigger) (a) Brown (#2 Trigger) (b) 0.8-1.4K Ω0.8-1.4K Ω4 V Minimum
Brown (#1 Trigger) (a) Engine Gnd Open Open 1 V Minimum
White (#3 Trigger) (a) Engine Gnd Open Open 1 V Minimum
Purple (#5 Trigger) (a) Engine Gnd Open Open 1 V Minimum
Brown (#2 Trigger) (b) Engine Gnd Open Open 1 V Minimum
White (#4 Trigger) (b) Engine Gnd Open Open 1 V Minimum
Purple (#6 Trigger) (b) Engine Gnd Open Open 1 V Minimum
(a) Black Band- Inside Switchbox (Engines using studded Switchboxes)
(b) Yellow Band- Outside Switchbox (Engines using studded Switchboxes)
4. Check the DVA on the Green wires from the Switchbox while connected to the Ignition coils. Check the reading on the Switchbox
terminal AND on the Ignition coil terminal. You should have a reading of at least 150 V Minimum at both terminals. If the reading is low
on one cylinder, disconnect the Green wire from the Ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a Pack Load resistor. Retest. If the
reading is now good, the Ignition Coil is likely bad. A continued low reading symptom indicates a bad Switchbox.
NO SPARK ON ONE BANK (ODD OR EVEN CYLINDERS ON INLINE 6 CYLINDER):
1. Check the resistance and DVA of the Stator as follows:
Read from Read to OEM Ohms CDI Ohms DVA (Connected)
Blue (Low speed Coil) Engine Gnd 5-7K Ω2-2.4K Ω180 V Minimum
Blue/White (Low speed Coil) Engine Gnd 5-7K Ω2-2.4K Ω180 V Minimum
Red (High speed Coil) Engine Gnd 90-200 Ω27-55 Ω20 V Minimum
Red/White (High speed Coil) Engine Gnd 90-200 Ω27-55 Ω20 V Minimum
2. Swap both sets of the Stator wires between the Switchboxes. If the problem moves, replace the Stator.
3. If the problem stays on the same bank, swap physical location and all connections of the two Switchboxes. If the problem stays with
one Switchbox, replace the Switchbox. If the Switchbox is bad, it is recommended that BOTH Switchboxes be replaced AS A SET.
ALL CYLINDERS HAVE SPARK BUT THE ENGINE WILL NOT RUN:
1. Check Ignition Timing for #1 Cylinder. Remember the Yellow banded leads go to cylinders 2, 4 & 6. and the Black banded leads go to
cylinders 1, 3, and 5. The Green Coil Primary leads could be swapped.
2. Index the flywheel for all cylinders. ALL Cylinders should have approximately the same Ignition timing offset as # 1 Cylinder.
3. Check the Resistance on each Switchbox’s White/Black wire, referenced to engine ground while disconnected. You should read
13-15 K Ωon each Switchbox. If there is over a 10% variance between the two Switchboxes, replace BOTH Switchboxes as a set.
4. Check Ignition Timing on all cylinders. If the Ignition Timing varies, replace both Switchboxes as a set.
SWITCHBOX OR TRIGGER REPEATEDLY BLOWS ON SAME CYLINDER:
1. Check the Trigger wires for shorts to engine ground as a shorted Trigger wire can destroy a SCR inside the Switchbox.
2. In contrast, a shorted SCR inside the Switchbox can destroy a Trigger coil. Check the Trigger resistance and DVA (see NO SPARK OR
INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS).
3. Replace the Ignition coil on the cylinder dropping spark.
ENGINE WILL NOT STOP (KILL):
1. Disconnect the Black/Yellow (or Orange) wire(s) at the Switchbox. Connect a jumper wire to the stop wire(s) from the Switchbox and
short it to engine ground. If this stops the Switchbox from sparking, the stop circuit has a fault. Check the key switch, harness, and shift
switch (if present). If this does not stop the Switchbox from sparking, replace the Switchbox. Repeat the test as necessary for any
additional Switchboxes.

Installation and Troubleshooting Guide
This installation is to be completed by an Authorized Dealer or Professional Service
Technician. For questions regarding installation or warranty, call CDI Tech Support
at 866-423-4832. Do not return to the Dealer or Distributor where the part was purchased.
Contact CDI Electronics Directly for Return Material Authorization.
CDI Electronics, LLC •353 James Record Road SW •Huntsville, AL 35824 USA
Web Support: www.cdielectronics.com •Tech Support: 1-866-423-4832 •Order Parts: 1-800-467-3371
All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of content, in any manner, without express written permission by CDI Electronics, LLC., is prohibited.
Rev E •4/30/2021 Page - 3 of 4QF-358
WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 3000-4000 RPM:
1. Disconnect the Yellow wires from the Stator to the Regulator/Rectifier and retest. If the engine now has good spark, replace the
Regulator/Rectifier.
2. Connect a DVA meter between the Stator’s Blue wire and engine ground. Run the engine up to the RPM where the problem is
occurring. The DVA should increase with RPM. A sharp drop in DVA right before the problem occurs usually indicates a bad Stator.
3. Connect a DVA meter between the Stator’s Red wire and engine ground. The DVA should show a smooth climb in voltage and remain
high through the RPM range. A reading lower than on the Blue wire reading indicates a bad Stator.
4. Connect an inductive tachometer to each cylinder in turn and try to isolate the problem. A single cylinder dropping spark will likely be a
bad Switchbox or Ignition coil. All cylinders not sparking properly usually indicates a bad Stator.
5. Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a miss at high speed when
the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem because the water will evaporate off the spark plug before
you can identify it.
6. Check the Trigger and Stator coil flywheel magnets for cracked, broken, or loose magnets.
MISS AT ANY RPM:
1. Disconnect the Yellow wires from the Stator to the Regulator/Rectifier and retest. If the miss clears up, replace the Regulator/Rectifier.
2. In the water or on a Dynamometer, check the DVA on the Green wires from the Switchbox while connected to the Ignition coils. You
should have a reading of at least 150 DVA or more, increasing with engine RPM until it reaches 300-400 DVA maximum. A sharp drop
in DVA right before the miss becomes apparent on all cylinders will normally be caused by a bad Stator. A sharp drop in DVA on less
than all cylinders will normally be the Switchbox or Trigger.
3. Connect an inductive tachometer to each cylinder in turn and try to isolate the problem. A high variance in RPM on one cylinder usually
indicates a problem in the Switchbox or Ignition coil. Occasionally, a Trigger will cause this same problem. Check the Trigger DVA (see
NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS).
4. Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a miss at high speed when
the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem because the water will evaporate off the spark plug before
you can identify it.
5. Check the Trigger and Stator coil flywheel magnets for cracked, broken, or loose magnets.
6. Rotate the Stator one bolt hole in either direction and re-test. If the miss is gone, leave the Stator as is. If the miss is worse, rotate the
Stator back where it was.
WILL NOT IDLE BELOW 1500 RPM:
1. Check the Bias resistance from the Black/White terminal (wire disconnected) on the Switchbox to engine ground. Reading should be
13-15K Ω.
2. Check the Stator and Trigger Resistance and DVA (see NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER).
3. Check for air leaks.
BATTERY CHARGING ISSUES:
1. Regardless if the charging issue is overcharging or not charging at all, the #1 cause of all charging issues is the battery often due to
improper style and/or charging neglect. #2 is the battery’s connections. #3 is the Regulator/Rectifier. #4 is the Stator.
2. The recommended type of battery for outboards is a single (NOT more than one) 850+ CCA dual purpose or cranking/starting non-
maintenance-free battery.
3. Non-maintenance-free batteries (lead-acid flooded cell; has vent caps on its top) have heavy, thick plates. They’re ideal for outboards,
where batteries are commonly drained by accessories while fishing, etc. when there is no charge applied to a battery while the battery
is in use. Its heavy plates can withstand constant discharging and charging. These batteries have much more reserve time and are
much more suited for this behavior.
NOTE: Some Maintenance free batteries will have vented caps on top. When in doubt, change the battery to a non-
maintenance free type.
4. Maintenance-free batteries should NEVER be used in an Outboard application. A new, fully charged maintenance-free battery may
work fine at first but their life span is dramatically shortened due to the constant charging and discharging. This activity will cause the
cells to become weak, and/or the cells will become dead. When this happens, the battery is unable to accept a full charge, thus putting
the Rectifier/Regulator at extreme risk of failure. Therefore, maintenance-free style batteries commonly cause charging issues shortly
after installation.
5. Check all battery connections, particularly at engine ground. Make sure that all connections are tight and free of corrosion. Do NOT use
wing nuts as they tend to loosen over a period of time from vibration. A loose connection WILL cause a premature battery and/or
Regulator/Rectifier failure(s).
6. If there is no change, try a single (NOT more than one) known good fully charged battery that is 850+ CCA Dual Purpose, or a
cranking/starting battery that is non-maintenance free. Make sure the battery is a lead acid flooded cell battery (has vent caps on its
top).

Installation and Troubleshooting Guide
This installation is to be completed by an Authorized Dealer or Professional Service
Technician. For questions regarding installation or warranty, call CDI Tech Support
at 866-423-4832. Do not return to the Dealer or Distributor where the part was purchased.
Contact CDI Electronics Directly for Return Material Authorization.
CDI Electronics, LLC •353 James Record Road SW •Huntsville, AL 35824 USA
Web Support: www.cdielectronics.com •Tech Support: 1-866-423-4832 •Order Parts: 1-800-467-3371
All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of content, in any manner, without express written permission by CDI Electronics, LLC., is prohibited.
Rev E •4/30/2021 Page - 4 of 4QF-358
7. Measure the DVA across the Stator’s Yellow battery charge wires, while connected to the Regulator/Rectifier. At idle the DVA will
normally between 8-25 DVA. If not, disconnect the Yellow wires from the Regulator/Rectifier and retest. DVA will normally be 17-50
DVA at idle. If the voltage is low, the Stator is possibly faulty. Perform a visual of the Stator for browning and varnish dripping. These
are signs that the Stator has overheated. If the visual inspection shows any of these signs, replace the Stator.
TACHOMETER TESTS
1. Measure the DVA across the Stator’s Yellow battery charge wires, while connected to the Regulator/Rectifier. At idle the DVA will
normally be between 8-25 DVA. If not, disconnect the Yellow wires from the Regulator/Rectifier and retest. DVA will normally be 17-50
DVA at idle. If the voltage is now within specification, the Regulator/Rectifier is likely defective.
2. Disconnect the Regulator’s Gray wire. At 800-1,000 RPM, check the DVA on the Grey wire FROM THE REGULATOR/RECTIFIER
measured to engine ground. The reading should be 8 DVA or more. If not, replace the Regulator/Rectifier.
3. If at least 8 DVA, run a jumper wire from the Gray wire out of the harness to one of the Stator’s Yellow wires.
4. If still no tachometer signal, try a known good tachometer.
5. If still no tachometer signal, replace the Stator.