FRAME IT ALL 70001019-MD350 User manual

70001019-MD350, 70002019-MD550, 71001019-MD1000
71001019-EC1200, 71002019-MD1000, 71002019-EC1200
72001019-MD1250, 72001019-EC1200, 72002019-MD1500
72002019-EC1900, 72002019-EP2000, 73001019-MD1500
73001019-EC1900, 73001019-EP2000, 73002019-EC1900
73002019-EP2000 Water Garden
Grecian
Customer Service: 1800-914-9835 |
[email protected]m
© Frame It All. All Rights Reserved.
1 LEVEL KIT CONTAINS:
•10 x Composite Timbers 4’ Straight
•20 x Stacking Brackets
•10 x Anchor/Ground Level Serrated Stakes
•40 x Plugs/Locking Nubs
•10 x Caps
•1 x Rubber Liner
•1 x Underlayment
•1 x Water Pump
•1 x Pump Tubing
ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS –Building the Frame
STEP 1:
Assemble the curved timbers by sliding one end of the timber into the channel end of one
of the brackets. Use plugs to lock the bracket in place.
Repeat this process on the other end of the timber flipping the bracket in the opposite
direction. (see example). Repeat for all remaining straight timbers.
How the Joints Work
Use plugs (included)
to cover the holes on
both side of timbers
1 LEVEL
2 LEVELS
Use plugs to
cover the holes
–two plugs are
required per
bracket (1 on
each side)
Use a Cap to
complete the
top level.
Use anchor
stakes for
ground level
framesand
stacking stakes
for additional
levels.
IMPORTANT: READ ALL
INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE
STARTING YOUR BUILD!
Required Tools:
•Shovel
•Levelling tool
•Hammer
Recommended Tools:
•Pond Safe Foam
Sealant
•Grading Rake
2 LEVEL KIT CONTAINS:
•20 x Composite Timbers 4’ Straight
•40 x Stacking Brackets
•10 x Stacking Stakes (**See Note Below)
•10 x Anchor/Ground Level Serrated Stakes
•80 x Plugs/Locking Nubs
•10 x Caps
•1 x Rubber Liner
•1 x Underlayment
•1 x Water Pump
•1 x Pump Tubing
**NOTE
Stacking stakes should only be used
when stacking boards for water
garden application.
ONLY Stacking Stakes can stack!
Use stacking
stake when
creating amulti-
level

Customer Service: 1800-914-9835 |
[email protected]m
© Frame It All. All Rights Reserved.
STEP 5.
Flip your anchor stakes around and hammer them into the ground until they are flush
with the top of the bracket.
Note: If you encounter a point in the ground that you cannot hammer through, remove
the stake, and cut it down to size until it can be hammered flush with the bracket.
STEP 2.
Prepare your pond area to be as level as possible. The frame can also be dug into a slope if
need be.
Note: There will be additional opportunities to level the frame once it is built.
STEP 3.
Layout the first layer of your pond as shown below. Insert your anchor stakes into the joints
so the serrated spike is facing up (see example). This will allow you to level the pond frame
and adjust the shape of your pond before driving the stakes into the ground.
STEP 4.
Level your pond frame using a line level or a long level tool that can go across the entire
length of the pond frame. Level at several cross sections to level all boards of the frame
STEP 6.
Once again, check the level of your pond edge and make any adjustments as needed.
STEP 7. (Skip if only 1 Level is being installed)
Stack the additional layers onto your pond frame.
2 Levels
STEP 8.
Attach finishing caps on top of each joint of the pond.
STEP 4a.
Use flat stones or soil to shim parts of the edging that needs to rise or dig under areas of
edging that need to be lowered. If you are using stones to level make sure to fill in the
gaps under your boards with soil later. This will prevent water from running under your
liner when it rains.
1 Level

Customer Service: 1800-914-9835 |
[email protected]m
© Frame It All. All Rights Reserved.
STEP 1.
Dig out your pond soil and place a few feet away from your ponds edge. This soil can be used
up against your pond edge to taper the grade away from your pond.
Note: Consider leaving dirt shelves in your pond where stones and aquatic plants can sit.
ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS - Digging your Pond and Lining
STEP 2.
Measure the depth of your pond to ensure you did not dig deeper than the liner you
purchased can cover. If you have dug too deep, fill in the hole with some soil to bring the
level up.
STEP 3.
Mold the piece of underlayment included in your kit to the frame of the pond. This layer
will protect your pond liner from stones or roots that may emerge over time.
STEP 4.
Roll up any excess underlayment to the pond edge or trim it to size AFTER you have
added water.
Note: Trimming underlayment to size before adding water can result in your
underlayment being pulled and not covering certain areas.
STEP 5.
Place the pond liner over the underlayment, molding it to your frame. Allow the liner to
go over the boards of the pond wall.
Note: It is important to eyeball an equal amount of liner on all sides on the pond. Allow
for about 12” of liner over your pond edge. This will give enough surface area for soil to
pin the liner down.
STEP 6.
Fold any excess liner up to the pond edge or cut liner to pond size after filling with water.
When cutting your liner, make sure to leave enough to allow it to drape completely over
the outside pond wall.
Note: Do not make cuts before filling with water.
1-”
STEP 7.
As you are molding the liner to the frame, attempt to remove as many folds as possible.
STEP 8.
Fill your pond and adjust the liner if needed while the weight of the water is not too much. As
the water fills up, pull your liner to eliminate any wrinkles that may still exist. Once the pond
has been filled, the weight of the water will prevent these wrinkles from returning.
STEP 9.
Follow your pump assembly instructions included in your pump box. Place your pump
inside of your pond at the furthest point possible from your waterfall or fountain. This will
maximize waterflow and filtration. Test how the water will flow over the rocks you have
chosen by changing the position of the tubing while the water is running. Once satisfied,
use rocks to keep the tubing in position.

Customer Service: 1800-914-9835 |
[email protected]m
© Frame It All. All Rights Reserved.
Landscape Design Suggestions
•Move your excess soil up to your pond edge and take care to pack soil under any
areas of the edge and then taper your soil grade down from the pond edge. Raising
your pond grade from the grade around will ensure lawn chemicals will not wash
into your ponds water effecting the health of your fish and aquatic plants.
•If you are looking to reduce the amount of stone in your design, there are a few
tricks you can do. The first is to use tall, dense leaved plants on either side of your
waterfall instead of stone. The second is instead of using stones all around the edge
of your pond, plant low creeping plants up against the pond frame so that plants
grow up and over the lined edge. Sporadically found this will eliminate the necklace
effect you often see in ponds and naturalize your landscape.
•Before digging my plants into the ground, I place them out where I want them while
they are still in pots. I like to place my plants out first and then place key large
stones in place to get a good idea of where I want things before digging in my plants
and stones.
•Once you like your placement, set your plants and dig your primary focal stones
partly in the soil to create a more natural look.
•My focal stones are sometimes placed in different manners to create a mini
mountain scene or a well-placed stone jutting into the pond.
•After my plants and primary focal stones are in place, I use a combination of mulch
and 2-3 different size stones or pebbles to create a natural look. I try not to over
think the placements of my secondary smaller stones, starting with the largest
stones first then graduating down to the smaller stones.
See our waterfall building video on YouTube.com/Frame It All Videos for a visual guide on
how to construct your waterfall feature!
Direct Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lC9zbXTbkag