LulzBot TAZ 5 User manual

LulzBot TAZ 5 GUIDE
--PRE-SETUP--
1. Ensure print bed and nozzle are clean. The print bed should be smooth across the
surface.
2. Ensure the filament reel has enough filament for your print. Make sure the filament is
not tangled on itself, and that none of it is broken leading from the reel to the extruder
nozzle. Make sure the reel is able to spin freely on the handle.
3. Close any windows around the printer, so the temperature around the machine will not
fluctuate. Fluctuating temperatures may cause the filament to gunk up inside the
extruder as well as warp your print.
--Machine—
Section 1: The switch is the power-switch while the port is a USB type B. Using a USB type A

and B chord at that port, you may connect your computer with the LulzBot Taz 5 and operate the
3D printer through CURA.
Section 2: The Bed where your prints are made on. The clamps on each corners
(Figure_1) are used to hold and adjust the level of the bed. To check if the bed is flat, you
can move the extruder down just above the bed then move the extruder to all four corners
and judge if the height on all sides are relatively even; this is done through the interface
panel (Section 4) under Main -> Movement -> Move axis.
Figure_1
Section 3: The extruder. The filament runs through the tube to this machine. The filament is
pulled by the gears and guided by the two screws in place. Those screws should not be clapped
down on the filament rather they should have enough space for the filament to only be guided
down toward the center of the extruder.
Section 4: The interface panel. The turn-dial (navigation button) on the bottom right corner is
used to navigate through the menus.
Section 5: The hook where the spool of filament will rest on. From there, you will feed the
filament through the tube to the extruder. For Taz 5, the filament’s thickness need to be 3mm
(2.85mm).
Section 6: This knob adjusts the height of the z-axis for “auto home” (the origin point). If the
extruder is too high or too low (pushing down on the bed), turn the knob in small integers (1/8
turns at most) till you are at an appropriate height; the extruder should be at a paper thin level
above the bed. Make only slight turns on the knob because the knob can be sensitive. Caution,
do not turn the knob too much or too far down. If not careful, damage can be done to the
extruder or the bed.
(More instructions, continue down)

--Interface Information--
(The picture above is the “Info screen” for the TAZ 5 printers.)
Section 1: The target temperatures (in Celsius) set for the print. The far left number is the
temperature for the nozzle, while the number on the right is the temperature for the print bed.
These temperatures need to be set specifically for the type of filament being used.
This information is set in your G-Code file from Lulzbot.CURA (latest version) – set for the
filament being used and “Lulzbot TAZ 5.” Refer to the information labeled on the filament roll as
well.
Section 2: The current temperatures of the nozzle and print bed. These temperatures
need to match the target temperatures in Section 1 before printing can begin.
Section 3: This area marks the fan speed %.
Section 4: The elapsed time of the current print. It is read as hours : minutes
Section 5: A progress bar that indicates how far along the G-Code the print has gone through.
It is not an indication of time passed, nor is it an indication of how much time remains.
Certain prints will have complex areas that require a large amount of g-code to create, while
other areas are simpler in structure and require less g-code to create. The former will cause the
bar to progress slowly, while the latter will progress the bar quickly. With this in mind, prints
that have complex and simple areas will have the bar progress slowly in complex areas, and the
bar may fill quickly when reaching simpler areas which is why it is not a good indication of time
remaining.

--Preheating Test--
To navigate the menus, turn the navigation button left/right to scroll up/down or
decrease/increase. To select an option in the menu, press the button.
1. Turn main power switch to “ON.”
2. Once on the default information screen, press the navigation button once to enter the
screen shown below. Move to “Temperature.”
(The picture above is the “Main” menu)
3. Next, depending on the type of filament being used, select and set the “Nozzle” and
“Bed” to the appropriate temperatures for the filament. The type of filament can be
found on the label on the roll of filament. If you are unsure of what kind of filament is
being used, ask an instructor.

(The picture above is the “Temperature” menu)
4. Wait until the nozzle and print bed (section 2 on info screen) match the target
temperatures (section 1.) If you try to start the print without the appropriate
temperatures, the print may come out erroneously or you may damage the printer.
--Extrusion Test--
Once the current temperatures match the target temperatures, it is best to do an extrude test
to ensure that the filament is flowing fluidly through the extruder and not being
blocked/clogged, or using filament that is going bad.
From the Info Screen:
1. Press navigation button -> Movement -> Move axis

(The picture above is the “Movement” menu)
(The picture above is the “Move axis” menu)
2. If the nozzle is close to the print bed, go to “Move Z” and move the Z axis in in
increments of 1mm in the positive direction (clockwise on button dial). This will raise
the nozzle up and away from the print bed.
3. If the nozzle is a sufficient distance from the print bed, pressed the navigation button
again to go back to the previous screen, select “Move axis,” and then select “Extruder”
and continue with similar steps as you did in #2 to commence an extrusion test.
4. On the extruder menu, dial in the positive direction (clockwise) to about a value of 20 –
30. The nozzle should begin to extrude a string of filament. If the gears stop and no

filament has come out, dial a bit more until it does. The filament should be smooth and
come out cleanly. If the filament is gunking up at the nozzle exit, use the tweezers to try
to clear it out and see if it begins to flow properly. If the nozzle continues to gunk/clog
at the nozzle tip, or if the filament is bubbly/rigid or just not coming out smoothly,
contact an instructor.
5. If the extruder test is successful, remove the filament test strands using the tweezers.
Go back to the “Movement” menu, and select “Auto home.” This zeros out the printer
to the origin point
--Printing—
Once the printer is at the correct temperature and the filament is flowing properly, from the
default info screen:
1. Press button - > Print from SD Card - > (yourfilename).gcode
While printing:
1. Ensure the first 10 minutes of the print are printing properly. The filament should be
adhering to the platform and not popping up or being dragged around by the nozzle.

(Ideally, the print should stay on the bed like this)
2. If the filament does not come out or looks funny after 15 to 20 seconds starting the
print, here are a few possible reasons why:
•If too high, the filament will extrude out in a cylinder like shape which will likely
ball up and/or not attach to the bed.
•If too low, the extruder’s nozzle will appear to be dragging along the surface of
the bed and the filament will appear smooshed or not come out at all.
oIf you see either case occur, immediately stop the print because
damage may occur to the machine.
oThe blocked filament could gum-up inside the extruder. And the nozzle
dragging along the bed could scratch the bed and/or break the nozzle
off the extruder
3. It is a good idea to check on your print periodically or have someone check for you. It is
possible for the print to error out after printing for a while if there is something wrong
with the model file, or if the print comes off the platform.
If there is a problem with the print, to stop the printer:
From the “Main” menu, click on “Stop Print”
(More instructions, continue down)

--After Printing—
1. Carefully remove the print from the print bed. It should require little force. Depending
on the print, a spatula may be needed. You should only need to lift one corner of the
print and the rest should pop off by hand. You typically want to do this about a minute
or so after the print finishes while the print bed is still warm. If needed, preheat the bed
again for easier removal.
DO NOT SCAPE THE PRINT BED!
2. From the “Main” menu, click onto Temperature -> Cooldown
This will allow the nozzle and print bed to cool off. Let the printer cooldown for a few
minutes. Once the nozzle is below 100c, turn off the main power switch.
CLEAN UP! Throw away any excess filament and make sure the area around the printer
is clean. Put away any tools back to their proper places.