
Set-Up Calibration (Continued)
This could not only give an erroneous reading at the multi-meter but could possibly damage the meter or the potentiometer (1). It is
important to not let the connections between pin A and pin B (FIG. 2) make contact which could short-circuit the reading from the
potentiometer (1). It is highly unlikely that this will damage the potentiometer (1) since there is very low amperage using two 9-volt
batteries, which is the reason for calibrating the potentiometer (1) with these two small battery power sources. Polarity is very
important. Make sure to connect the positive source from the battery to pin A and follow the rest of the connections exactly as
shown in figure 3.
4. The key objective is to get close as possible to 4mA at the closed stroke of the valve and as close to 20mA to a fully open valve.
These procedures are going to guide the calibration as a static-calibration where the valve does not have to be fully stroked open since
the full open valve stroke is known and the valve is already closed to set the low-end of calibration. The high end is going to be set by
using the chart in figures 1 & 2 and moving the collar (8) that exact full open stroke of the valve to calibrate at 20mA. Take the two
screws from the fine tuning adjustment ‘S’ and ‘Z’ ports (FIG.1) on the potentiometer (1) and place them in a safe place.
5. Turn the multi-meter on and watch the screen numbers on the digital meters or the needle on analog meters (FIG.3). The reading
should be other than zero like 2.1, 21.0 or any positive number. If it is not or there is a negative reading (needle pulls to the left on
analog-type meters), verify that the connections are correct and that polarity is correct on the batteries and that the main positive pole
connection is connected to port A on the potentiometer. Check all connections in general compared to figure 3 and refer to number 3
step in the calibration set-up on the previous page.
Actual Calibration
1. After the meter is reading a positive number, the potentiometer (1) is ready to be calibrated. Mark a line with a scribe or black
permanent marker at the top of the collar (8-see B mark on figures 1 & 2) for the low mark setting. With the lever arm adjustment
screw (4) loose, turn the shaft (1A) on the potentiometer (1) fully clockwise. Slowly turn the shaft (1A) on the potentiometer (1)
counter-clockwise while watching the meter screen. The meter reading should go up in value then go down and start over again. If the
numbers go down in value flip the assembly over to other side of bracket ( See Fig. 2) 180 so that the top becomes the bottom
and reassemble. The key here is to find the largest span of reading within its full shaft spin of travel. This “sweet-spot” should be
found in the middle so that the potentiometer shaft (1A) will not reach its end of rotation which could break a linkage part or strip an
adjustment screws (4 and/or 4A). This “sweet-spot “ is usually found right after turning the shaft (1A) counter-clockwise and getting a
reading close to 4.0 mA. If reading is constant throughout the full rotation of the shaft (1A), verify that voltage output of each of the
batteries is 9 volts DC. If in doubt, replace the batteries with new fresh ones and re-check the connections using figure 3 as a guide. If
there are still erroneous readings, verify that multi-meter is functioning properly using the manual for that specific multi-meter. If there
are no mA readings on the screen of the meter, it could be possible that the fuse inside the meter is blown. Again, verify serviceability
of multi-meter using the specific manual for the meter (ammeter).
PROCEDURES TO INSTALL THE RT9420 POTENTIOMETER TO THE 700 SERIES BASIC CONTROL VALVE
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